The easiest of the north face routes on the Courtes to start from the summit. This is the route to the lookers right of the North East Face and climbs the couloir to the summit ridge where you head up the north face to the summit.
Ski Grade: 5.3 E3
Slope Angle: Sections of 50°
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Les Courtes, North East Spur | Ross Hewitt.
This steep and icy face is often in best conditions in the spring where the snow sticks to the glacial ice and the sections over 50° are ski-able which is quite often not the case in the winter months. There are three possible exit points onto the ridge with the left hand exit being the most sustained. Normally people ski from under the Qui-Remue itself which is the needle on the lookers right of the face.
Ski Grade: 5.3 E3
Slope angle: sections of 50° but sustained above 45° for most of the descent.
Aspect: North East Facing
Height Gain: 960m to the ridge at 3660m
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Phil Ingle » Breche Nonne Eveque.
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Dent du Geant South Face | Ross Hewitt.
Dent Du Geant South Face | Dave Searle.
Skiing – Dent du Geant Face Sud.
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Col de la Buche – west Couloir + Tour de l’ M 06.02.2012 – Luca Pandolfi
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Take Two….Gliere SE Couloir | Dave Searle.
Gliere South East Couloir | Ross Hewitt.
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The Tour Verte is the Cliffs between the Envers Des aiguilles Refuge and the Aiguille De Roc.
5c Obligatory/200m/TD sup.
An Envers Des Aiguilles classic and a perfect afternoon route to get warmed up before that big next day. Really good sustained climbing on corners and cracks with little in situ gear. Double small and medium friends will be useful aswell as a no.4 for the first pitch. 10 minutes from the Refuge des Envers. The start of the route is just out of sight from the terrace but can be seen from the path to the hut.
P1 6b+ or 5c, The first pitch climbs a strenuous hand crack in a red pillar to belay on a small ledge above. (the steep start can be avoided at 5c by traversing in from the right passing a bolt)
P2 6a+, Climb slabs to a layback crack. Belay on the large ledge above.
P3 6a, Climb the short wall then flakes and corners to obvious belay station.
P4 6a+ Climb the cracks to a small roof where you step right and back left after a short way.
P5 5c, Climb the corner above to a belay near a shoulder.
P6 5c, Trending leftward climb to the top of the Tour Verte.
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Rocking out in the Envers. | Dave Searle.
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Aiguille du Chardonnet- West couloir direct « Ben Briggs.
Aiguille du Chardonnet- Migot spur and West couloir « Ben Briggs.
Aiguille du Chardonnet – West Couloir 08.05.2008 – Luca Pandolfi
Andreas Fransson: Aiguille du Chardonnet – West couloir.
From the Col de la Brenva, which would be normally be reached via the Three Monts Route starting from the Aiguille du Midi head down and right under the large seracs at the top. The middle slopes aren’t to steep but the bottom section is more sustained and still exposed to serac fall.
Height of Col: 4465m
Grade; 5.2 TD
Slope angle: 40°-50° for 700m
Aspect: south facing.
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col de la brenva : voie tardivel. The wild side. « Cedric Bernardini.
Col de la Brenva voie Tardivel « Ben Briggs.
Mt Maudit – Brenva Shoulder 17.05.2012 – Luca Pandolfi.
Mont Blanc, voie Tardivel du Col de la Brenva à ski.
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Le Soleil Rendez-Vous avec la Lune, Aiguille du Grepon
Grépon: Le soleil a rendez-vous avec lune :: route / topo – Camptocamp.org
Access this top of the Aiguille d’Argentiere via the Milieu Glacier or by climbing the route its self from the starting from the Salena Glacier. Often badly corniced at the top and difficult to find in good condition due to its easterly aspect. Turn left out the bottom and head round to climb up the back of the Col Du Chardonnet and drop back down to the Argentiere Glacier to get back to Chamonix.
Aspect: East
Grade: D, 5.1
Gradient: 45° for 400 m
Height gain: 1130M
Height of Summit: 3900M
Skiing and climbing photos – galleries from adventures and expeditions
ally swinton blog: Barbey Couloir.
Aig. d’Argentiere – Voie Gabarrou 08.05.2012 – Luca Pandolfi.
Barbey Variation | Ross Hewitt.
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Fil à Plomb (TD-, III, 4+, M4, 700m).
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Fil a Plomb attempt.
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Y Couloir, Aiguille d’Argentiere. One of those days…. | Dave Searle
Aiguille d’Argentiere – Y Couloir 26.04.2011 – Luca Pandolfi.
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
The obvious couloir underneath the bridge between the two summits of the Aiguille Du Midi. Difficult to get in good conditions due to its westerly aspect and steep top section (55°) . The route joins into the Glacier Rond after 400m of skiing. Abseil off the north end of the bridge on the right hand side (insitu tat). 2-3 60m rappels bring you to a point where you can start to ski (depending on conditions). Watch out for stuff falling of the bridge whilst you are abseiling (Ski poles, ice axes, ski’s, cameras often find their new home in this couloir) helmet advisable.
My Biggest Day this Winter. | Dave Searle.
High Altitude Darts And An All Time Passerelle | Ross Hewitt.
Off Piste Skiing: Cunningham Couloir & Glacier Rond.
Guys Climbing & Skiing Blog: Cunningham Couloir (off the bridge of the midi).
Aiguille du Midi- Cunningham Couloir (TD 45°-55°) and West Couloir (TD 50°-55°) « Ben Briggs.
The direct middle section to the Dru Couloir, probably about M8 at the crux.
Normally abseil back down the route.
Other Routes on the Dru:
North Face Original (Pierre Allain), Petit Dru NF
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Dru North Couloir Direct // Alpine Exposures Mountain Photography — Breathtaking Photography.
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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
Ben Briggs | Chamonix based skier and climber..
2nd best ski line in the Mont Blanc Massif? (After the Couturier Couloir). Exposed to Serac fall from above. It is advisable to asses the slope the day before and climb up the Normal Route on the Tacul and drop in from the top to minimise the amount of time spent in the Couloir. The route to the right is the Jager Couloir and has less objective danger but is steeper and narrower.
Best conditions found: March to June
Aspect: East
Grade: TD, 5.4
Gradient: 45°- 55° for 700m
Height of Mont Blanc Du Tacul: 4248M
Height Gain: 950M
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
This superb ski traverse to the Le Tour glacier and down to the village of Le Tour is very popular and rightly so. Starting from the Top station of the Grande Montet start by dropping down on to the argentiere glacier and crossing to the far bank. The initial skin up to the Col can often be very icey so ski crampons are a must. The climb is 480m to the Col and you’ll often need Crampons and an axe to get up the final 80m boot-pack safely. From the col you drop down on the skiers left hand side of the glacier to the tree line where it is best to stay left and join the forest track which ends in below the Vormaine Ski slope in Le Tour It could be a good idea to check out the descent route from the top of the Posettes ski lift in Le Tour to get an idea of where to go in the lower third if you haven’t been there before. The skiing down here faces almost due north and the snow can stay good days after snowfall. Be aware of avalanche risk on the descent as there has been some huge avalanches here in the past….
Height of the Col: 3028m
Height Gain: 480m
Slope angle: 35°
Aspect: North/North-West
Col du Passon: Traverse S-N : Grands Montets > le Tour :: route / topo – Camptocamp.org.
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Col du Passon 17/4/2012
This extremely popular tour is a great place to start in the world of Ski Touring. The First climb up can be tricky on cold days when the slope or track is icey and can be a real test of your kick turns. The skiing is realativly straightforward for the most part and you’ll often find good snow on the final ski down to Le Beut.
From the top of Floria drag lift at Flegere ski down 100m and put your skins on. From here start the first climb up to the to the Col Des Aiguille Crochues (see picture in Gallery). There is often a track in this section. The final slope to the col is too steep for skining so it is advisable to put ski’s on you pack and climb up on foot (crampons advisable too). From the Col take off your skins and make a long traverse on the south facing slopes to the right. Be carefull on this traverse as you are above some quite large cliff bands and you are crossing under some large avalanche prone slopes (early start very advisable) You’ll pass the couloir which you climb up for the Glacier Mort. At the end of this traverse you will reach a large flat area at the bottom of the ridge you have skied parallel too. From here put your skins back on and start the final hike up to the Col Du Berard which is the lowest point at the top of the valley around to the right. From the Col Du Berard take of your skins and ski down into the massive Berard valley keeping on the right hand side of the stream all the way down to Le Beut. Don’t forget some money for a beer at the bar at the bottom of the ski slope and if you can remember one thing when you get to this Bar its that the Trains are at 38Mins past every hour back to Chamonix! The bar owners get very bored of this question!
In condition From: December to May
Grade: PD, 2.3
Height Gain: 480M
aussieskier.com – TR: Chamonix Day 4 – Ski Tour Crochues/Berard.
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Crochues Berard – the epic..
The Col between the Droites and the Courtes is an excellent “climb up, ski down” tour from the Talefre Glacier. The slopes are never more than 40degrees and is best skied before midday due to its South-West aspect.
Grade: AD, 4.1
Height gain: 1500m
Height of Col: 3733M
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Col des Droites | Ross Hewitt.
Another fun and interesting ski tour ending in the Berard valley which requires intermediate mountaineering skills. Also a great way of accessing the Col de L’Encrenaz. The skiing of the back is good and as per its neighboring col, the Belvedere, the north side holds good snow days after it has snowed and late into the season. This route has more of a mountaineering feel to it than the Col Du Belvedere and requires crampons for the last section of climbing to the col and often a 30m abseil off the back to access the north side where the descent begins. Follow the route for the Col Du Belvedere to the Lac Blanc refuge. From here head up and rightwards over small headlands to reach the Combe de Beugeant and the start of the climb proper to the col. Near the top of this combe you will reach a point where a vauge ledge system lead out left to a snowy saddle (which is the Col de Beugeant). This section is exposed and often icy so you will need crampons and an ice axe and some experience of using them both. There are a few bolts and pegs on the traverse and it is also possible to get some slings over spikes too. Its worth putting a rope on and moving together along this section if your not confident, THIS SECTION IS NOT TO BE UNDERESTIMATED!! From the col, depending on conditions, you can ski down the initial steep section (40° for 60m) or set up an abseil to get to a point where you can put your skis on.
The normal route down is heading out skiers left to join the large powder bowls that lead to the base of the Berard valley where you can ski down to Le Beut via a track on the right-hand bank of the river. There are also other ways down to the to right of this which weave there way through cliff bands and are slightly steeper in places. As mentioned before the col Beugeant is a great way of accessing the Col de l’Encrenaz where you can ski down to Le Beut or the Col des Montets. For this tour head far skiers right from the bottom of the abseil via a long traverse and 10m bootpack to low point on the ridge which is the Col de l’Encrenaz.
Height of col: 2807m
Height Gain: 900m
Aspect: South on ascent and North on descent.
When: January to May
Lorne Cameron: Chamonix Ski Blog – Col De l’Encrenaz & Rectiligne
Col de Beugeant: Traversée Flégère village du Buet :: route / topo – Camptocamp.org.
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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
Nantillons Glacier and Spencer Couloir – Natives.
Ross Berg Blog: Spencer Couloir.
Almost the perfect couloir? Accessible from the NE slope and usually requires at least one abseil to get to a point where you can start to ski, although with good conditions you can ski straight in. Not often climbed due to its southerly aspect and thus high risk of rock fall (helmet advisable on descent). You can easily check out the conditions with some binoculars from the Vallee Blanche.
other routes on this face: South Face
Grade: D+ 5.1
Slope aspect and Angle: 45-50° for 600m, South facing
“Angelique” Couloir – Les Courtes 18.02.2012 – Luca Pandolfi.
The couloir Angelique. A glorious traverse. « Cedric Bernardini
March 2009- Les Courtes 3856m Couloir Angelique (D+ 45°-50°) « Ben Briggs.
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The Brenva Spur : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost
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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
This, the first stage of the Chamonix-Zermatt Haute Route, is an extremely popular ski tour easily accessible from first lift at the Grandes Montet. The first section of the climb up is often very icy in the morning so ski crampons are a good piece of kit to have with you as the first section is the steepest. You can see the Col from the Grandes Montet Lift station. From the Argentiere glacier head up towards the col on the right hand side of the Chardonnet Glacier. The Climb up is about 770m from where you put your skins on. Ski back the Same way. This is also the starting point for the South Couloir of the Chardonnet (TD, 5.1) and the 3 cols.
Grade: PD, 2.3
Gradient: 35° for 250m.
Height of Col Du Chardonnet: 3323M
Col du Chardonnet- Blue sky and powder…
Steep and exposed descent on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul which is rarely in good condition. Small cliff band at the bottom usually requires a rope and 2 axes on the way up and an abseil on the way down.
Grade: TD+, 5.4
Gradient: 50° – 55° for 800m.
Height gain: 950M
Height of Summit: 4248m
Other Routes on this Face: Jager Couloir and the Gervasutti Couloir
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Couloir du Diable 10.04.2010 – Luca Pandolfi.
Mont Blanc du Tacul- Diable Couloir (TD+ 50°-55°) « Ben Briggs
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
Steep and exposed descent on the North Face of the Triangle du Tacul weaving its way through the rock bands. ususally requires an abseil to pass the narrow section near the bottom.
Grade: 5.3 ED
Slope angle: 50-55°
Aspect: North Facing.
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Triangle du Tacul- Contamine-Mazeaud Route (ED 50°-55°) | Ben Briggs
A pleasant and varied Ski tour covering some impressive terrain and giving superb views. From the Grandes Montets Start up the Col Du Chardonnet. From the top of this col make a couple of short abseils down on to the Salena Glacier. From the bottom of the abs head down whilst traversing as hard left as you can. You’ll reach the bottom of a rocky spur after a short while. From here put skins back on and head up leftwards to the Fenetre Salena. The climb up to the Col (Fenetre du salena) is relativity straightforward and the col itself is easy to cross. From here keep your skins on and head up leftwards under the north face of the Tete Blanche up to the Col Superior Du Tour. From here the ski down onto the le tour glacier is straightforward and again when you get to Le tour Glacier head leftwards and join the Col Du Passon descent route to finish in le tour.
Grade: AD, 3.1
Heighest point (col Du Chardonnet) : 3323M
Hight Gain in Total: 1060m
In Condition From: Febuary to May
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Les 3 Cols
This classic route up the north face of the Aiguille Du Chardonnet provides good mixed climbing up the central spur at an amenable grade. Start to the right of the rocky buttress which come down from the north ridge and climb a series of mixed gullies to the foot of the spur proper. Follow up the spur via rock and ice steps on the right. You can climb on the left hand side of the spur but it is more exposed to serac fall. The snow slopes above lead to a short icy gully which is about 55° and finishes at the summit.
Descent via the west face by down climbing and then 2 abseils (30m) which can be difficult to find unless other parties have been that way. From the foot of the abseils continue down and right to the Le Tour Glacier.
Grade: AD+ IV
Length: 500M
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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The classic route of the Triangle and a popular first ice goulotte. Be aware of teams above you knocking down chunks of ice. The last section of the approach is threatened by serac fall and in the winter the initial slope (p1) is often bullet hard blue glacial ice due to the strong winter storms striping away any snow from the slopes. Also be aware of large spin-drift avalanches after heavy periods of snow.
Can be done in a day during colder periods and it is normal for people to abseil off the route after the steeper ice has finished (top of p5) down a series of good bolt belays (they are on both banks of the route). Normally climbable all year round this can have more than 5 teams in it on a busy day! It’s worth looking at another route when it is like this.
Grade: II 4
Pitches: 10 pitches to the Summit of the Tacul Triangle. P1 45°, P2 50°, P3 60°/75° or easy rock climbing on the RH side (in-situ pegs and cams), P4 85°/70°/50°, P5 60°/70°/80°. Parties normally abseil from here but you can continue to the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc Du Tacul – P6-10 easy snow and mixed climbing up the gully then onto the spur to the top of the triangle. From the top of the Triangle continue up the ridge to the summit/summit slopes of Mont Blanc Du Tacul where you can follow the normal route back to the Col Du Midi.
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Chere Couloir of North Face Triangle of Mont Blanc du Tacul (350 m …
Chere Couloir : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost
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January 2009- Aiguille de L’eboulement 3599m South Couloir (D 40°-45°) « Exploring the Mountains
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
S Couloir, Aiguille De L’Eboulement. D² | Dave Searle.
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Aiguille Verte- Couturier Couloir « Ben Briggs.
This incredible snow/ ice face provides one of the easiest ways to the summit of the Aiguille Vert and is a major classic of the Alps. Conditions have changed in recent years and there is now a small serac forming over the top. Time will tell if this threatens the route more and more. The route is normally climbed in the winter months as the chance of rock fall is quite high during the summer. The slopes can often be black ice in the winter so the route can take different paths to make the best of the conditions to reach the summit. The route is long (1000m) as so shouldn’t be underestimated and the descent can often be the crux. Some teams will down climb/abseil back they same way but it is more popular for teams to traverse the mountain by descending the Whymper Couloir either skiing or abseiling/down climbing.
Grade: D
Length: 1000m
Height of the Vert : 4122m
Skagit Alpinism: Aiguille Verte, Couturier Couloir
Couloir Couturier : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost
Aiguille Verte: Couloir Couturier :: route / topo – Camptocamp.org
Couturier couloir- Aiguille Verte // Alpine Exposures
Alpinisme : Aiguille Verte 4122 m – couloir Couturier – Le Petit Alpiniste Illustré.
This descent on the north east face of the Petite Aiguille Verte is a classic steep ski and can be easily accessed from the Grande Montets lift station by one of two ways. The first and most popular is to climb the normal route up to the Petite Aiguille Verte (snow and ice climbing) to approx 50m bellow and left of the summit where the couloir starts and descends down to the upper Rognon Glacier. The other way to do it is to Climb the couloir itself. For this you need to ski down the piste 50m and traverse right (under/through the ropes that mark the side of the Piste) and follow a high traverse to the bottom of the first obvious couloir which is the Chevalier. The bergshrund can be difficult to cross. The final 40m of the couloir (at the top) can be very steep (55°) and often the snow cover isn’t great.
Aspect: North East
Slope Angle: 45-50° for 350m
Grade: 5.2 D
Chevalier couloir photo trip report // Alpine Exposures
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
Not as steep as its neighboring routes and probably the easiest descent on the North Faces of the Argentiere basin. The slope is often in the shade less than the Col Des Courtes so the snow can sometimes have a crust which due to its aspect gets worse during the day. In good conditions this is a superb descent and a great introduction to extreme skiing as you can turn around at any point on the way up and it gradually gets steeper the further up you go.
Ski Grade: 5.1
Slope angle: 40-50°+ for 500m
Height Gain: 1050m
Height of col: 3601m
Aspect: North East facing
Carnets du Mont-Blanc: Col des Crystals, facing NE.
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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This, the central route up the Triangle Du Tacul is a fun outing on steep snow and ice. It has been skied a with one rappel on the lower crux step. Best conditions are found in early summer when there is more snow-ice to climb on.
Most of the route is 50-55° with exception of the crux on the second pitch with a step of up to 65°. From the main central ice-field you make a traverse out rightwards to join the Chere Couloir and finish by the vague ridge to the summit of the Triangle. From here continue up the slopes above to the summit of Mont Blanc Du Tacul or traverse rightwards (with care, crevasses and risk of avalanches) to join the normal route on the MT B du Tacul North Face.
Length; 350m to Triangle du Tacul summit. 350m to the summit of Mont Blanc Du Tacul
Grade: AD+
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
A steeper version of the Pas de Chevre. From the Grande Montets top station head down the metal ladders to the col Des Grandes Montets. From here you Ski west towards the Dru down the large open glacier staying on its left bank. A rock spur will start to appear on the on the face which you leave on the right hand side as you join the top of the couloir. There is a steep section near the top (45° for 40m) and after the couloir eases back to 35-40° for the remaining 300m. You will arrive on the Nant Blanc Glacier underneath the Nant Blanc Face of the Aiguille Verte (crevasses) From here there are a number of ways down to the exit gully of the Pas de Chevre but you will need to go hard right above the cliff band to reach the way out onto the Mer de Glace where you follow the normal route back to Chamonix as per the Vallee Blanche.
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Rectiligne Couloir.
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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
Les Courtes- north/north east couloir (D 45°-50°) « Exploring the Mountains
Courtes North East Slope and more… | Dave Searle.
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Federico Oggioni: Petit Jorasses, via Bonatti-Mazeaud
This is the last col on the north side of the Argentiere Glacier (before the Aiguille De Triolet) and is a steep and exposed ski line. There is a rock band at half height and the final couloir to the ridge is properly steep. Often only in condition in the spring when the warmer storms come back in and the snow sticks to the ice.
A good fall back option is the Col Des Cristaux to the lookers right.
Ski Grade: 5.2
Slope angle: 45-50°+ for 500m
Height Gain: 1020m
Height of col: 3569m
Aspect: North East facing
Col des Courtes and Aiguille de l’Amone | Ross Hewitt
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
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Supercouloir : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost.
A sort after and popular steep ski down the North West face of the Aiguille Du Midi. Be aware of blue glacier ice on the top half as often this is not sufficiently covered in snow. From the bottom of the snow arete from the snow tunnel head down the steep face facing down toward the Vallee Blanche (a good place to make some warm up turns). From the bottom of this face head around the cliffs to the right until you can see the Cosmiques refuge. Side step or hike up to the col between this refuge and the Simond Refuge (smaller building on the right). This is also the same same starting point for the Cosmiques Couloir. Some years it is possible to keep your ski’s on and make a traverse onto the top of the face (exposed on the left) from a point 40m or so down and left of the Simond Refuge. The first steep section is the most exposed and a fall here could have serious consequences. After 400m of skiing traverse left to a shoulder which is the start of the exit couloir. If snow cover is good then you should be able to ski directly in but an abseil is often required. This exit couloir provides great skiing down to the glacier where you need to traverse rightward next to the cliffs until you are off the glacier. From here you have have several options. If snow cover it is possible to ski down to the Tunnel entrance and hitch a ride back to town. Its worth having a look at this face from Brevent and scoping out your descent if you haven’t been before. Alternatively you can make a long (and tedious) traverse back to the mid station of the Aiguille Du Midi lift passing the old lift station and staying as high as you can all the way around. Be very careful of avalanches here as you are very exposed above cliffs for a large part of the traverse.
Best conditions found: February to May
Aspect: North West
Grade: D, 4.2
Gradient: 45°- 50° for 800m
Height of Aiguille Du Midi: 3842M
Height Gain: 70M
Ross Hewitt | Skiing, Climbing, Adventure.
Le Glacier Rond | bravabella.com
Spring in Chamonix: Glacier Rond
Glacier Rond and West couloir « Exploring the Mountains
This long ice route on the north face of the Droites is very aesthetic and interesting and is a good alternative to the Ginat. The mixed steps in the upper ramp are straightforward enough and the upper snow arete has a Frendo Spur feel to it. Conditions for the Crux pitch (first pitch up to the ramp) need to be good and would consideratly add to the difficulty if the ice was too thin.
Best conditions are usually found in the Autumn but it is common for teams to climb the route in the winter months.
Don’t forget to book your place in the hut in the winter to avoid a very unhappy gardien (info and telephone number here).
Print The Colton Brooks Minitopo
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Droites N face, Colton-Brooks / Alpine Exposures
Colton-Brooks, Les Droites. | Dave Searle
Skagit Alpinism: Les Doites, Colton-Brooks
Europe’s highest 8a? This classic and sort after test piece is not much of a crack when it gets hard. The first crack to the possible belay ledge is probably 6c+. After this steep and fingery climbing up the vague groove leads to the chains. Don’t forget to breathe! Approach via the Cosmiques Arete to the Grande Gendarme. Alternatively descend the arete to the bottom of the crux pitch.
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This is the smaller couloir to the lookers right of the Gervassuti Couloir. It is steeper and narrower than the Gervasutti Couloir but has less objective danger from above. It is advisable to make an early start from the Cosmiques Refuge to find the snow in best condition in the mid to late morning. Very Steep, Very Exposed, Very Scary.
Best conditions found: March to May
Aspect: East
Grade: TD+, 5.4
Gradient: 45°- 55° for 700m
Height of Mont Blanc Du Tacul: 4248M
Height Gain: 950M
Mont Blanc du Tacul- Jager Couloir (TD+ 50°-55°) « Exploring the Mountains.
Andreas Fransson: Couloir Jager, Mt Blanc du Tacul – A fun but very cold adventure…
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
A popular classic on the east face of Mont Blanc Du Tacul which is best climbed in cold weather. Most parties will climb the initial 11 pitches (up to 85° Ice and mixed, the last step is the steepest) and make an abseil descent back down the route (60m ropes are better). You can continue up the mixed and snow gully above to reach the upper slopes of the E ridge of Mont Blanc Du Tacul. From the summit you can descend via the normal route to the Col Du Midi.
Grade: III 4+
Length. 500m
Gabarrou-Albinoni | Ross Hewitt
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Midi Plan Traverse
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
A sort after and popular steep ski down the West face of the Aiguille Du Midi. From the bottom of the snow arete from the snow tunnel head down the steep face facing down toward the Vallee Blanche (a good place to make some warm up turns). From the bottom of this face head around the cliffs to the right until you can see the Cosmiques refuge. Side step or hike up to the col between this refuge and the Simond Refuge (smaller building on the right). This is also the same same starting point for the Glacier Rond. The top of the Couloir is on the left of this col. Unless the snow conditions are perfect you will have to make three long abseils into the Couloir (although it can be possible in the spring to ski straight in). There is a bolted belay on the rocks at the top and then two more belays on the right bank 30m appart. After putting your ski’s on you will find yourself on the steepest section and exposed over a small cliff band. Make you way down carefully trending leftward to find a small awkward section to cross this steep section. The skiing from under this cliff is about 45° and with good snow it is superb. There are two exits from the bottom of the Couloir (the left hand one is easier but often has a large bergshrund). Ski down the glacier sticking close to the rocks and watching out for crevasses until you reach a moraine bench on the right bank at the bottom of a rocky spur. From here you have have several options. If snow cover good it is possible to ski down to the Tunnel entrance and hitch a ride back to town. Its worth having a look at this face from Brevent and scoping out your descent if you haven’t been down here before as it can be easy to find yourself at the top of a cliff. Alternatively you can make a long (and tedious) traverse back to the mid station of the Aiguille Du Midi lift passing the old lift station and staying as high as you can all the way around. Be very careful of avalanches here as you are very exposed above cliffs for a large part of the traverse. You can (if you know how) make it back to Cham Sud in the winter if the snow is down to the valley floor.
Best conditions found: February to May
Aspect: North West
Grade: D, 4.2
Gradient: 45°- 50° for 800m
Height of Aiguille Du Midi: 3842M
Height Gain: 70M
Cosmiques Couloir (D 45°-50°) and Envers du Plan (AD 40°) « Ben Brigg
in the cosmique « Cedric Bernardini
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Moine Ridge, Aiguille Verte
Moine S Ridge Integral // Alpine Exposures Mountain Photography — Breathtaking Photography.
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Tequila Stuntman // Alpine Exposures
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Grandes Jorasses- Shroud and Seracs in the sun // Alpine Exposures
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Part 1
Part 2
Grand Capuchin (3838 m). Bonatti Route, Mont Blanc Massif
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This route is more often than not in best condition in February where the slope is less runneled and often still cold. It’s fairly common for folk to climb the Swiss Route on the north face from first bin if your super-fast or from the Argentiere hut if your more realistic and want to have the option of when to drop in in the afternoon. You could also climb the NE slope to get to the summit where the descent starts (more or less). Be careful of cornices on the ridge and slabs forming on the face. You will also need to do a 60m abseil through the lower cliff band to reach the Talefre Glacier and the often tricky Bergshrund.
Also on this face: Couloir Angelique
Slope Aspect and Angle: 40-50° for 700m, south and south west facing
Grade: TD, 5.2
Traverse of Courtes and South West Couloir | Ross Hewitt.
Les Courtes- South face direct « Exploring the Mountains
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Aiguille de la Republique – Voie Normale.
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Mont Blanc #1. Dylan Taylor, Mountain Guide and Photographer
Mont Blanc #2. Dylan Taylor, Mountain Guide and Photographer
A good, steeper variation to the Coutuier Couloir which heads straight up rather than rightwards on the ramp to take in 4 pitches (70/85°) of ice and mixed to a snow bay down from the summit of the Grande Rocheuse. Follow snow slopes and mixed steps out right of the bay to the summit saddle. Abseil descent of the route is possible ( Ice threads with some insitu belays on the main section of climbing). Or abseil to top of Whymper couloir.
Grade: IV 4
Length: 1000m
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Vivagel
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Modica Noury
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Forbes Arete, Aiguille Du Chardonnet. | Dave Searle.
Aiguille du Chardonnet – the Forbes Arete
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Forbes Arete
A vertical world: Forbes Arete
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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Contamine- Pointe Lachenal « Ben Briggs
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Contamine Route, Pointes Lachenal
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Richard Cranium Memorial, Les Droites.
Starting from Flegere folow around to The Lac Blanc via a long traverse. (In common with the Col Du Beugeant and Col Du Belvedere) From here traverse further around the slope to towards the argentiere end of the Valley and climb up to the South West couloir leading down from the Notch between the Aiguille Martin and Aiguille de l’Encrenaz. The first Part of the NE couloir (directly of the back of the notch) is quite steep (45°-50°) and often very narrow. Side slip down this a short way and set up and Abseil to pass a cliff band (minimum 30m). From the base of this abseil continue down to join the large couloir and ski down to the Col des Montet or Le Beut
Grade: D, 4.2/3
Gradient: 45° – 50° for 100m
Height of Aiguille De l’Encrenaz: 2887M
Height Gain; 600m
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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Aiguille de L’Encrenaz, NE Couloir
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
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FN du Grand Dru – Voie Lesueur – My Routes
Lesueur route free- Les Drus // Alpine Exposures
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Contrary to popular belief British climbers CAN Ski. | Dave Searle
NE face of the Aiguille de l’Amone (TD 45°-55°) « Exploring the Mountains
Col des Courtes and Aiguille de l’Amone | Ross Hewitt
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Pinocchio and other climbs // Alpine Exposures
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Via degli Svizzeri, Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
Grand Capucin – Swiss Direct (TD+,VII,300m)
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Scotch on the Rocks // Alpine Exposures
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Late to Say I’m Sorry- Aiguille Verte // Alpine Exposures
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Gervasutti Pillar. | Dave Searle
Gervasutti Pillar : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost
Gervasutti Pillar – Tacul // Alpine Exposures
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Mont Blanc (4810 m). Central Pillar of Freney. Alps, France.
Freney Pillar- Mont Blanc // Alpine Exposures
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North Couloir- Les Drus // Alpine Exposures
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Aiguilles du Diable- Tacul // Alpine Exposures
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http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xlc6dr
Innominata Ridge- Mont Blanc // Alpine Exposures
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Cretier Route- Mont Maudit // Alpine Exposures
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Grandes Jorasses- No Siesta // Alpine Exposures
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Encore une fois / Alpine Exposures
The best way to ski this classic couloir line is to approach from the south side following the route to the Col du Tacul. The couloir drops down the north side of the col but can often require an abseil to get in. The couloir is nearly completely north facing and very deep so there is often cold snow here although it can be tricky to find in really great conditions.
Slope angle: 45°-50° for 300m
Aspect: North
Height of Col: 3337m
Height gain to col: 920m
Ski Grade: 5.1
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Capucin Couloir & Glacier de Mort
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.
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Lorne Cameron: Chamonix Ski Blog – Feeling Hot Hot Hot.
A very good High Resolution Photo Here.
UKC Articles – Frendo Spur, Chamonix.
Climb and Fly: The Frendo Spur and some paragliding fun…
This classic ice route up the North Face of the Droites is becoming increasingly popular. The best conditions are usually found in the autumn when the Grandes Montets lift is shut, but most parties will climb it in February to April starting from the Argentiere Hut. Make sure you book as it gets extremely busy in the winter. If you don’t expect a very unhappy Gardien (info and telephone number here). Most parties climb the route in a long day finishing in the Couvercle hut. Efficient teams often make it back to Chamonix if they have ski’s in the winter.
Average ascent time: 12 hours
Length: 1000m
Grade: TD+, (IV, 5)
Other Routes On the Droites North Face:
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Ginat, Les Droites (TD+, V, M4+, 1000m).
Skagit Alpinism: Les Doites, Le Ginat Solo.
Les Droites North Face – La Ginat Route. Dylan Talyor Mountain Guide and Photographer
Les Droites: Ginat :: route / topo – Camptocamp.org
This superb and varied Ski tour covers some impressive terrain with stunning views of the Grandes Jorrasses North Face. The climb up to the Breche from the Geant Icefall/Salle a Manger is best done in the morning as the final couloir (The south Couloir of the Breche Puiseux) heats up quickly and can be prone to rock fall. The Periades Bivi hut is well worth a visit and is along the ridge to the left after you climb up the South Couloir to the Breche Puiseux. The climb along the ridge to the hut is quite exposed. The hut sleeps no more than four people and is a bivi style hut with in-situ blankets. You can abseil directly down onto the Leschaux Glacier from the hut in two 30m abseils. Most parties won’t stay in the hut but will abseil directly off the Breche in two 30m abseils to complete the Tour in a long day. The least open part of the glacier is the left bank but be careful not to follow the left hand exit Couloir if your not keen for steeper skiing. Instead trend rightwards to the middle of the slope after a few hundred meters of skiing to follow down to the lower Leschaux Glacier.
Aspect: North East.
Grade: AD, 4.1
Gradient: 45° for 50 m
Height gain: 970M
Height of breche: 3432M
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Breche Puiseaux
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One of the best descents into the Berard Valley and an increasingly popular ski tour. Start from Top of the Floria drag lift at Le Flegere and climb to the Col Des Aiguilles Crochues. From here the couloir that you need to climb to reach the summit of Pointe Alphonse Favre is visible on the south face which faces the Col (see photo bellow). Make a short traverse down to the bottom of the couloir from the Col (5-10 mins). Climb the couloir directly to the ridge and head to the summit of Pointe Alphonse Favre which is rightwards along the easy ridge (crampons advisable). The descent heads directly down the north face from the summit and joins into the massive Berard valley after 400m or so. Watch out for cliffs on the way down!! Head rightwards to start then after the first steep section head back leftwards. Easy and pleasent skiing leads down to the Berard valley. Stick to the right-hand side of the river all the way down to Le Buet. Don’t forget to bring some money for a beer whislt you wait for the train back to Chamonix.
Possible from: January-may.
Average Time: 5-6 Hours
Aspect: North.
Grade: AD, 3.3
Gradient: 40° for 50 m
Height gain: 850M
Height of Summit: 2788M
Lorne Cameron: Chamonix Ski Blog – Glacier Du Mort
First Ski Tour of the Winter! Glacier Mort | Dave Searle (8/3/2012)
Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Capucin Couloir & Glacier de Mort
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Print The Colton/Macintyre Minitopo
Grandes Jorasses- Colton Macintyre / Alpine Exposures
Colton/Macintyre, North Face Of The Grandes Jorasses November 2010. | Dave Searle
“Its going to be a long night dude!” | Dave Searle
Will Sim’s blog: A little beta for the Colton Mac.
Awesome and unique training venue only 20 minutes Drive from Chamonix. There is a good spread of grades from M4 to M13 and the crag stays dry in the rain. There is plenty of in-situ quick draws and there are a few logs on one of the M7′s to provide more interest. The rock is bad but perfect for dry tooling. Difficult to find!
How To get there.
From the Chamonix take the Autoroute Blanche towards Sallanches. Take the 2nd exit sign posted Sallanches and at the round about take the 2nd exit (sign posted Lac Des Iletes) and follow this road over the river and up the hill. After short while you’ll reach a cross roads where you again follow signs to Lac Des Iletes. After another 500m you’ll come to a sawmill next to a stream. Park just past the small wooden bridge on the left hand side, on the main road. Try to be sensitive of parking here to avoid blocking access to the woodpile for the sawmill.
Walk back over the bridge and take the track that follows next to the stream up the hill. After 300m Cross over a wire fence and continue up the grassy field on a vague track. Go up the bank and straight on to pass a small grassy knoll with chimneys (hobbit home) on the right. Follow the track out left to a cross roads in the woods where you go right up the hill. Follow the track staying right until you join up with a stream which has a reasonably distinct crossing point. Follow the vague path up the bank on the other side of the stream. Follow the vague track around and past some ruins and then a large black flaky boulder. The track continues rightwards around the hillside (old rope to follow for a section) and then up. You’ll start to see the cliffs appearing through the trees. Watch out for falling ice during the winter months in the last section to the cliff.
Enjoy!
Today we went to the Zoo | Dave Searle
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Couloir Cachè to Brenva Glacier 11.01.2012 – Luca Pandolfi.
Couloir Cache – the secret couloir | Ross Hewitt.
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Grandes Jorrasses North Face- Croz spur with Slovenian start « Exploring the Mountains
Croz Spur with Slovenian start. | Dave Searle
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Traverse de la Noire 09.04.2010 – Luca Pandolfi.
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ally swinton blog: SE colouir of Chardonnet
B Line -lunch at elevation and a hot chick « Cedric Bernardini
Chardonnet – SE Couloir | Ross Hewitt
Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France
Aiguille du Chardonnet- South Couloir (TD 45°-55°) « Ben Briggs.
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