Jan 312012
 
Description

This, the first stage of the Chamonix-Zermatt Haute Route, is an extremely popular ski tour easily accessible from first lift at the Grandes Montet.  The first section of the climb up is often very icy in the morning so ski crampons are a good piece of kit to have with you as the first section is the steepest.  You can see the Col from the Grandes Montet Lift station. From the Argentiere glacier head up towards the col on the right hand side of the Chardonnet Glacier.  The Climb up is about 770m from where you put your skins on.  Ski back the Same way.   This is also the starting point for the South Couloir of the Chardonnet (TD, 5.1) and the 3 cols.

Grade: PD, 2.3

Gradient:  35° for 250m.

Height of Col Du Chardonnet: 3323M

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Col du Chardonnet- Blue sky and powder… 

Le Col Du Chardonnet.

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Jan 292012
 
Description

This classic route up the north face of the Aiguille Du Chardonnet provides good mixed climbing up the central spur at an amenable grade.   Start to the right of the rocky buttress which come down from the north ridge and climb a series of mixed gullies to the foot of the spur proper.  Follow up the spur via rock and ice steps on the right.  You can climb on the left hand side of the spur but it is more exposed to serac fall.  The snow slopes above lead to a short icy gully which is about 55° and finishes at the summit.

Descent via the west face by down climbing and then 2 abseils (30m) which can be difficult to find unless other parties have been that way. From the foot of the abseils continue down and right to the Le Tour Glacier.

Grade: AD+ IV

Length: 500M

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Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France

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Jan 272012
 
Description

A sort after and popular steep ski down the North West face of the Aiguille Du Midi.  Be aware of blue glacier ice on the top half as often this is not sufficiently covered in snow.  From the bottom of the snow arete from the snow tunnel head down the steep face facing down toward the Vallee Blanche (a good place to make some warm up turns).  From the bottom of this face head around the cliffs to the right until you can see the Cosmiques refuge.  Side step or hike up to the col between this refuge and the Simond Refuge (smaller building on the right).  This is also the same same starting point for the Cosmiques Couloir.   Some years it is possible to keep your ski’s on and make a traverse onto the top of the face (exposed on the left) from a point 40m or so down and left of the Simond Refuge.  The first steep section is the most exposed and a fall here could have serious consequences.  After 400m of skiing  traverse left to a shoulder which is the start of the exit couloir.  If snow cover is good then you should be able to ski directly in but an abseil is often required.  This exit couloir provides great skiing down to the glacier where you need to traverse rightward next to the cliffs until you are off the glacier.  From here you have have several options.  If snow cover it is possible to ski down to the Tunnel entrance and hitch a ride back to town.  Its worth having a look at this face from Brevent and scoping out your descent if you haven’t been before.  Alternatively you can make a long (and tedious)  traverse back to the mid station of the Aiguille Du Midi lift passing the old lift station and staying as high as you can all the way around.   Be very careful of avalanches here as you are very exposed above cliffs for a large part of the traverse.

Best conditions found: February to May

Aspect: North West

Grade: D, 4.2

Gradient:  45°- 50° for 800m

Height of Aiguille Du Midi: 3842M

Height Gain: 70M

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Ross Hewitt | Skiing, Climbing, Adventure.

Le Glacier Rond | bravabella.com

Spring in Chamonix: Glacier Rond

Glacier Rond and West couloir « Exploring the Mountains

Map
Jan 252012
 
Description

This is the smaller couloir to the lookers right of the Gervassuti Couloir.  It is steeper and narrower than the Gervasutti Couloir but has less objective danger from above.  It is advisable to make an early start from the Cosmiques Refuge to find the snow in best condition in the mid to late morning.  Very Steep, Very Exposed, Very Scary.

Best conditions found: March to May

Aspect: East

Grade: TD+, 5.4

Gradient:  45°- 55° for 700m

Height of Mont Blanc Du Tacul: 4248M

Height Gain: 950M

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Mont Blanc du Tacul- Jager Couloir (TD+ 50°-55°) « Exploring the Mountains.

Andreas Fransson: Couloir Jager, Mt Blanc du Tacul – A fun but very cold adventure…

Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.

Map
Jan 242012
 
Description

A sort after and popular steep ski down the West face of the Aiguille Du Midi.  From the bottom of the snow arete from the snow tunnel head down the steep face facing down toward the Vallee Blanche (a good place to make some warm up turns).  From the bottom of this face head around the cliffs to the right until you can see the Cosmiques refuge.  Side step or hike up to the col between this refuge and the Simond Refuge (smaller building on the right).  This is also the same same starting point for the Glacier Rond.  The top of the Couloir is on the left of this col.  Unless the snow conditions are perfect you will have to make three long abseils into the Couloir (although it can be possible in the spring to ski straight in).  There is a bolted belay on the rocks at the top and then two more belays on the right bank 30m appart.  After putting your ski’s on you will find yourself on the steepest section and exposed over a small cliff band.  Make you way down carefully trending leftward to find a small awkward section to cross this steep section.  The skiing from under this cliff is about 45° and with good snow it is superb.  There are two exits from the bottom of the Couloir (the left hand one is easier but often has a large bergshrund).  Ski down the glacier sticking close to the rocks and watching out for crevasses until you reach a moraine bench on the right bank at the bottom of a rocky spur.    From here you have have several options.  If snow cover good it is possible to ski down to the Tunnel entrance and hitch a ride back to town.  Its worth having a look at this face from Brevent and scoping out your descent if you haven’t been down here before as it can be easy to find yourself at the top of a cliff.  Alternatively you can make a long (and tedious)  traverse back to the mid station of the Aiguille Du Midi lift passing the old lift station and staying as high as you can all the way around.   Be very careful of avalanches here as you are very exposed above cliffs for a large part of the traverse.  You can (if you know how) make it back to Cham Sud in the winter if the snow is down to the valley floor.

Best conditions found: February to May

Aspect: North West

Grade: D, 4.2

Gradient:  45°- 50° for 800m

Height of Aiguille Du Midi: 3842M

Height Gain: 70M

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Cosmiques Couloir (D 45°-50°) and Envers du Plan (AD 40°) « Ben Brigg

in the cosmique « Cedric Bernardini

Map
Jan 222012
 
Description

This route is more often than not in best condition in February where the slope is less runneled and often still cold.  It’s fairly common for folk to climb the Swiss Route on the north face from first bin if your super-fast or from the Argentiere hut if your more realistic and want to have the option of when to drop in in the afternoon.  You could also climb the NE slope to get to the summit where the descent starts (more or less).  Be careful of cornices on the ridge and slabs forming on the face.  You will also need to do a 60m abseil through the lower cliff band to reach the Talefre Glacier and the often tricky Bergshrund.

Also on this face: Couloir Angelique

Slope Aspect and Angle: 40-50° for 700m, south and south west facing

Grade: TD, 5.2

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Traverse of Courtes and South West Couloir | Ross Hewitt.

Les Courtes- South face direct « Exploring the Mountains

Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France

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Jan 212012
 
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Forbes Arete, Aiguille Du Chardonnet. | Dave Searle.

Aiguille du Chardonnet – the Forbes Arete

Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Forbes Arete

A vertical world: Forbes Arete

Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France

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Jan 202012
 
Description

Starting from Flegere folow around to The Lac Blanc via a long traverse.  (In common with the Col Du Beugeant and Col Du Belvedere)  From here traverse further around the slope to towards the argentiere end of the Valley and climb up to the South West couloir leading down from the Notch between the Aiguille Martin and Aiguille de l’Encrenaz.  The first Part of the NE couloir (directly of the back of the notch) is quite steep (45°-50°) and often very narrow.  Side slip down this a short way and set up and Abseil to pass a cliff band (minimum 30m). From the base of this abseil continue down to join the large couloir and ski down to the Col des Montet or Le Beut

Grade: D, 4.2/3

Gradient:  45° – 50° for 100m

Height of Aiguille De l’Encrenaz: 2887M

Height Gain; 600m

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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Aiguille de L’Encrenaz, NE Couloir

Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France

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Jan 172012
 
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Contrary to popular belief British climbers CAN Ski. | Dave Searle

NE face of the Aiguille de l’Amone (TD 45°-55°) « Exploring the Mountains

Col des Courtes and Aiguille de l’Amone | Ross Hewitt

Map
Jan 152012
 
Description

The best way to ski this classic couloir line is to approach from the south side following the route to the Col du Tacul.  The couloir drops down the north side of the col but can often require an abseil to get in.  The couloir is nearly completely north facing and very deep so there is often cold snow here although it can be tricky to find in really great conditions.

Slope angle: 45°-50° for 300m

Aspect: North

Height of Col: 3337m

Height gain to col: 920m

Ski Grade: 5.1

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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Capucin Couloir & Glacier de Mort

Tobias Granath – steepskiing, climbing, trailrunning in Chamonix, France.

Map 
Jan 152012
 
Description

This superb and varied Ski tour covers some impressive terrain with stunning views of the Grandes Jorrasses North Face.  The climb up to the Breche from the Geant Icefall/Salle a Manger is best done in the morning as the final couloir (The south Couloir of the Breche Puiseux) heats up quickly and can be prone to rock fall.  The Periades Bivi hut is well worth a visit and is along the ridge to the left after you climb up the South Couloir to the Breche Puiseux.  The climb along the ridge to the hut is quite exposed.  The hut sleeps no more than four people and is a bivi style hut with in-situ blankets.  You can abseil directly down onto the Leschaux Glacier from the hut  in two 30m abseils.   Most parties won’t stay in the hut but will abseil directly off the Breche in two 30m abseils to complete the Tour in a long day.  The least open part of the glacier is the left bank but be careful not to follow the left hand exit Couloir  if your not keen for steeper skiing.  Instead trend rightwards to the middle of the slope after a few hundred meters of skiing to follow down to the lower Leschaux Glacier.

Aspect: North East.

Grade: AD, 4.1

Gradient:  45° for 50 m

Height gain: 970M

Height of breche: 3432M

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Chamonix Climbing and Skiing Conditions: Breche Puiseaux

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