This classic route up the north face of the Aiguille Du Chardonnet provides good mixed climbing up the central spur at an amenable grade. Start to the right of the rocky buttress which come down from the north ridge and climb a series of mixed gullies to the foot of the spur proper. Follow up the spur via rock and ice steps on the right. You can climb on the left hand side of the spur but it is more exposed to serac fall. The snow slopes above lead to a short icy gully which is about 55° and finishes at the summit.
Descent via the west face by down climbing and then 2 abseils (30m) which can be difficult to find unless other parties have been that way. From the foot of the abseils continue down and right to the Le Tour Glacier.
Grade: AD+ IV