Cosmiques Coulior, Aiguille Du Midi

Jan 242012

Description

A sort after and popular steep ski down the West face of the Aiguille Du Midi. From the bottom of the snow arete from the snow tunnel head down the steep face facing down toward the Vallee Blanche (a good place to make some warm up turns). From the bottom of this face head around the cliffs to the right until you can see the Cosmiques refuge. Side step or hike up to the col between this refuge and the Simond Refuge (smaller building on the right). This is also the same same starting point for the Glacier Rond. The top of the Couloir is on the left of this col. Unless the snow conditions are perfect you will have to make three long abseils into the Couloir (although it can be possible in the spring to ski straight in). There is a bolted belay on the rocks at the top and then two more belays on the right bank 30m appart. After putting your ski’s on you will find yourself on the steepest section and exposed over a small cliff band. Make you way down carefully trending leftward to find a small awkward section to cross this steep section. The skiing from under this cliff is about 45° and with good snow it is superb. There are two exits from the bottom of the Couloir (the left hand one is easier but often has a large bergshrund). Ski down the glacier sticking close to the rocks and watching out for crevasses until you reach a moraine bench on the right bank at the bottom of a rocky spur. From here you have have several options. If snow cover good it is possible to ski down to the Tunnel entrance and hitch a ride back to town. Its worth having a look at this face from Brevent and scoping out your descent if you haven’t been down here before as it can be easy to find yourself at the top of a cliff. Alternatively you can make a long (and tedious) traverse back to the mid station of the Aiguille Du Midi lift passing the old lift station and staying as high as you can all the way around. Be very careful of avalanches here as you are very exposed above cliffs for a large part of the traverse. You can (if you know how) make it back to Cham Sud in the winter if the snow is down to the valley floor.

Best conditions found: February to May

Aspect: North West

Grade: D, 4.2

Gradient: 45°- 50° for 800m

Height of Aiguille Du Midi: 3842M

Height Gain: 70M