Description
6a Obligatory, TD sup.
The first half of this route (Children of the Moon) is a great route which finishs at half height on the east face of the Aiguille Du Roc. Most of the climbing is on slabs with a few great pitches on cracks and ramps. The finish to the shoulder of the Aiguille Du Roc (Children; Integrale) is a stunning climb and a real treasure of the Envers Des Aiguilles. The route is fully equipped for abseil descent and the slab pitches are well bolted. You’ll need a rack of cams and wires and 2x 50m ropes. There is a off route abseil from the bottom of the crux pitch which brings the line of abseil straighter to get to the halfway ledge.
Start 60m to the left of the large corner formed by the Pyramid Pillar and the true east face of the Aiguille Du Roc (20mins from the Envers Refuge) on a vauge right to left ramp.
P1 5b, A few pegs on this pitch, just to the left of wet streak up vauge ramp line.
P2 5c, Moving up and left of the belay crossing the bolt line of La Dolce Vita via a step left and then back right to belay at the bottom of the groove formed by the pillar.
P3 6a, Climb up the left hand side of Pillar (Obvious from the snow slope whilst approaching), two or three bolts near the top. Belay at top of pillar.
P4 6a+, Slab, Can be avoided down and right at 5c. Belay underneath the small roof on the LH belay station.
(Pitch 4+5 can be linked together 48m)
P5 6a, Through the roof and up the crack to belay on the ledge above.
P6 6a+, traverse to LH end of ledge and climb crack system above passing some bolts.
P7 6a, slab then cracks passing 2 bolts.
P8 6a, Up a corner then step right to rib and finish leftwards of the roof.
P9 5c, Corners up to the midway terrace.
This is where the original Children of the Moon finished. The following pitches are described for Children; Integrale.
P10 6a, cross the small gully and climb the slab passing three bolts in total to finish more steeply on a large ledge above.
P11 6a+, Cracks then Slabs trending leftwards
P12 3c, cross the gully staying at the same height to join the lower belay station.
P13 6b (6a with 1 point of aid on a bolt), Superb cracks and a difficult steep right below the bolt.
P14 6a, Fist crack.
P15 6a, Stunning pitch up red wall with cracks. (visible from the hut just to the right of white streak)
P16 6a, Broken cracks passing 2 bolts.
P17 6a+, Up corner system stepping left to slab then finish over a bulge.
P18 6a, Climb over bulges and ledges to the shoulder.
Height gain: 550m (in total, 320m for first half)
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- Children Of the Moon Integrale
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Children of the Moon Integrale. | Dave Searle